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If you work with cutting tools or handle materials like porcelain—whether for construction (tiling), manufacturing (porcelain parts), or maintenance—you may have wondered: “Will tungsten carbide cut porcelain?” The answer is clear but nuanced: Yes, tungsten carbide can cut porcelain, but its effectiveness depends on three key factors: the type of porcelain, the design of the tungsten carbide tool, and the cutting process (e.g., speed, cooling). Porcelain is hard and brittle, so not all tungsten carbide tools work equally well, and improper use can lead to tool wear or porcelain cracking. In this article, we’ll break down why tungsten carbide works for porcelain, which tools to use, how to optimize cutting, and common mistakes to avoid. All content is based on industrial practice, with simple explanations for both professionals and hobbyists.

The ability to cut a material boils down to hardness: a cutting tool must be harder than the material it’s cutting. Here’s how tungsten carbide and porcelain stack up:

• Tungsten carbide hardness: 8.5–9 on the Mohs Hardness Scale (only diamond, cubic boron nitride, and a few other materials are harder).
• Porcelain hardness: 6–8 on the Mohs Scale. Most common porcelains (e.g., floor tiles, bathroom sinks) fall in the 6–7 range; high-density industrial porcelains (used in machinery parts) can reach 7–8.

Since tungsten carbide is harder than all types of porcelain, it can physically abrade or chip away porcelain material. However, porcelain’s brittleness (it easily cracks under uneven pressure) means cutting requires more than just hardness—it needs the right tool design to distribute force evenly.

Not all tungsten carbide cutting jobs are the same. These three factors determine whether you’ll get clean cuts or broken porcelain/ worn tools:

Porcelain isn’t a single material—density and composition vary, and this affects cutting difficulty:

Generic tungsten carbide tools won’t work for porcelain—you need designs that address brittleness and hardness:

• Abrasive vs. sharp-edge tools: Porcelain chips easily, so “abrasive” tools (e.g., diamond-coated tungsten carbide saw blades) work better than sharp, chisel-like tools. The abrasive action grinds away material slowly, reducing cracking.
• Binder content: Tungsten carbide tools with 8–12% cobalt binder are ideal—they balance hardness (for cutting) and toughness (to resist breaking when hitting porcelain edges).
• Cooling channels: Tools with built-in cooling holes (e.g., hollow-core grinding bits) prevent overheating. Porcelain conducts heat poorly, so friction can melt tool binders or crack porcelain.

Even the best tool fails with bad technique. Focus on these two parameters:

• Cutting speed: Too fast = excessive heat (tool wear + porcelain cracking); too slow = inefficient cutting. For tiles, aim for 1,500–3,000 RPM (varies by tool size); for industrial porcelain, lower speeds (1,000–2,000 RPM) work better.
• Cooling: Always use water or a water-based coolant. Dry cutting generates 2–3x more heat, cutting tool life by 50% or more and increasing porcelain cracking risk.

Not all tungsten carbide tools are designed for porcelain. Here are the most effective options, organized by job type:

For common jobs like cutting floor tiles, follow these steps to get clean, crack-free results:

1. Prepare the workspace: Lay a soft mat (rubber or foam) under the porcelain to prevent scratches. Fill a spray bottle with water (for cooling) and have a rag handy.
2. Choose the right tool: Use a 4–7 inch diamond-coated tungsten carbide saw blade (for straight cuts) or an abrasive grinding bit (for curves). Ensure the tool has a cobalt binder (8–12% content).
3. Set the speed: Adjust your power tool (tile cutter, angle grinder) to 2,000–2,500 RPM. For larger tiles (12+ inches), lower to 1,500–2,000 RPM.
4. Mark the cut line: Use a pencil or marker to draw your cut—avoid using sharp tools (e.g., scribes) that can create micro-cracks.
5. Cut with steady pressure: Hold the tool at a 90° angle to the porcelain. Apply light, even pressure (let the tool do the work) and spray water continuously on the cutting area. Move slowly—aim for 1–2 inches of cut per second.
6. Finish edges: After cutting, use a small tungsten carbide burr to smooth rough edges (this prevents chipping during installation).

Even experienced workers make these errors—here’s how to skip them:

• Dry cutting: Never cut porcelain without water. Dry cutting reduces tool life by half and makes porcelain 3x more likely to crack.
• Using sharp-edge tools: Avoid tungsten carbide chisels or straight blades (no diamond coating). They push porcelain instead of grinding it, causing chips.
• Excessive pressure: Pressing hard doesn’t speed up cutting—it just bends the tool or creates uneven force, leading to cracks.
• Ignoring tool wear: If your tungsten carbide tool starts leaving rough edges or burning porcelain, replace it. Worn tools generate more heat and ruin cuts.

1. Myth: “Any tungsten carbide tool can cut porcelain.”
   Fact: Only abrasive, diamond-coated, or specialized tungsten carbide tools work. Generic tungsten carbide blades (for wood/metal) will chip porcelain and wear out in minutes.

2. Myth: “Faster cutting = better results.”
   Fact: Porcelain needs slow, steady cutting. High speeds create heat that melts the tool’s cobalt binder, making the tool useless—and the heat can crack the porcelain.

Tungsten carbide is one of the best materials for cutting porcelain, but success depends on matching the tool to the porcelain type and using proper technique. For residential tiles, a basic diamond-coated tungsten carbide saw blade and water cooling will work. For industrial porcelain, invest in high-density tungsten carbide tools with cooling features.

If you’re cutting specialized porcelain (e.g., high-temperature industrial parts) or need help choosing a tool, feel free to reach out. We can recommend tailored tungsten carbide solutions based on your project.